Cookbooks are like movies. It is impossible to watch every one of them. But the really good ones will stand the test of time. Do you remember watching a movie when you were a kid, not liking it much because you thought it was your father's kind of movie? Yet a timeless classic will still be there when you've reached a certain (st)age in your life. It was only recently that I started looking up Clint Eastwood movies. Not because I'm getting old but rather, because I've enjoyed his more current movies (Hereafter, Invictus, Gran Torino) - as actor, director, producer and/or composer - I wanted to see him when he was younger.
I suppose it's the same with Anthony Bourdain. We've all watched Tony travel the world eating his way into someone else's culture. Most people had already read Kitchen Confidential, the book that made him The Anthony Bourdain. I've read much about it but I don't think I should read it yet. (A pretty good idea for a Christmas present within budget, though.) I was more interested in his Les Halles Cookbook and had finally added it to my collection last July. It was first published nine years ago but I'm glad to read it now, not any earlier. Otherwise I wouldn't have understood nor appreciated his wisdom and humour. Just look at the tags - they are recipes either done or to-be-done.
I suppose it's the same with Anthony Bourdain. We've all watched Tony travel the world eating his way into someone else's culture. Most people had already read Kitchen Confidential, the book that made him The Anthony Bourdain. I've read much about it but I don't think I should read it yet. (A pretty good idea for a Christmas present within budget, though.) I was more interested in his Les Halles Cookbook and had finally added it to my collection last July. It was first published nine years ago but I'm glad to read it now, not any earlier. Otherwise I wouldn't have understood nor appreciated his wisdom and humour. Just look at the tags - they are recipes either done or to-be-done.
One of his easiest recipes, workable in most parts of the world (yes, Kuala Lumpur), is the mushroom soup. I've only used Campbell's Cream of Mushroom when I was an ignorant, desperate, lazy kid living in the university hall. Years later, that can of "thing" made me cringe. And it will happen to you too once you've tasted real mushroom soup. If cream is a must-have, just stir it in. Trust me, doing this not only makes you healthier and twice as satisfied, it also gives you a greater sense of pride knowing how easily you can make this a staple in your very own kitchen.
But please, please, please, use only fresh mushrooms: I like an equal mix of white and brown button mushrooms, along with a small quantity of Shiitake mushrooms for that earthy flavour. For the stock, if it isn't homemade, at the very least, choose one that is low-sodium and MSG-free. Personally I prefer vegetable stock to chicken stock. Lastly, less is more. Either stir in a few drops of truffle oil or a spoonful of cream before serving, but not both.
Mushroom Soup
Adapted from Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook
Serves 6
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, chopped
200 g white button mushrooms, roughly cut
200 g Swiss brown mushrooms, roughly cut
60 g Shiitake mushrooms
1200 ml vegetable stock
1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
salt and pepper
(Optional) 200 ml cream
(Optional) A few drops of truffle oil
Method:
Heat a large heavy-based pot on medium-high heat, adding the oil and butter. When the butter stops bubbling, add the onion and cook until soft (be careful not to brown it). Add the mushrooms, mix thoroughly and let it sweat for about 10 minutes. Add the stock and herbes de Provence. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 45 minutes.
Allow the soup to cool for a few minutes. Using an immersion blender, process the soup in short pulses while ensuring the blades are fully immersed. Go easy with the blending - the soup has more texture when there are bits of mushrooms left to be, well, bitten. (If your pot is too big and the soup is too shallow to fully immerse the blades, tilt the pot by lifting one handle when you blend closer to the other.)
Once blended, season to taste with salt and pepper. Closer to serving time, bring the soup up to a simmer and stir in the cream, if using. Otherwise, ladle the soup into individual bowls and add a few drops of truffle oil, if using. Serve immediately.
Adapted from Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook
Serves 6
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, chopped
200 g white button mushrooms, roughly cut
200 g Swiss brown mushrooms, roughly cut
60 g Shiitake mushrooms
1200 ml vegetable stock
1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
salt and pepper
(Optional) 200 ml cream
(Optional) A few drops of truffle oil
Method:
Heat a large heavy-based pot on medium-high heat, adding the oil and butter. When the butter stops bubbling, add the onion and cook until soft (be careful not to brown it). Add the mushrooms, mix thoroughly and let it sweat for about 10 minutes. Add the stock and herbes de Provence. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 45 minutes.
Allow the soup to cool for a few minutes. Using an immersion blender, process the soup in short pulses while ensuring the blades are fully immersed. Go easy with the blending - the soup has more texture when there are bits of mushrooms left to be, well, bitten. (If your pot is too big and the soup is too shallow to fully immerse the blades, tilt the pot by lifting one handle when you blend closer to the other.)
Once blended, season to taste with salt and pepper. Closer to serving time, bring the soup up to a simmer and stir in the cream, if using. Otherwise, ladle the soup into individual bowls and add a few drops of truffle oil, if using. Serve immediately.
Tony says, "If you really want to ratchet your soup into pretentious (but delicious), drizzle a few tiny drops of truffle oil... just before serving." Cheeky. It is downright pretentious if you truffle-oil every goddamn thing and proudly announce it to your guests. But do it on the quiet, you're just discerning in a rather classy manner.
